Malappuram is one of Kerala's most densely settled districts, a green stretch of coconut and rubber, laterite hills and the Bharathapuzha flowing through, with Kottakkal's Arya Vaidya Sala drawing patients from across the world and football fever running deeper here than anywhere in India. Nilambur's teak forests and Ponnani's old port sit at either end. Such a district deserves good company....